It was the salad that first gave it away.  I remembered that, six years ago, the salad had consisted of a pile of shredded and vinegary cabbage hidden under my grilled chicken.  But this time, someone had painstakingly carved a flower out of a carrot and a cherry tomato and placed them in the center of the plate – as garnish.  Something had definitely changed.

I was at Rinconcito Lodge, a pastoral slope of green dotted with cows and crowned with three rustic cabins where my then boyfriend and I visited nearly six years ago.  Now engaged, we had agreed two nights before to return to this little-known spot and relive some of the butterflies, both the morpho and the stomach kind.  But can you ever really return?  Especially in a place where tourism is developing as rapidly as Costa Rica?

Our guide Alfrin

Thankfully, besides the salad, and a brand-new restaurant where it was served, the lodge seemed not to have been altered much.  We were still picked up in Liberia by the owner in his Trooper that seemed to run on the white dust blanketing the road out of town.  His sly grin and laconic answers still gave him away as a cowboy dabbling in the hotel business.  We were again ushered into a cabin of rough-hewn logs that creaked with the night winds.  And we delighted in seeing the familiar face, the lines set just a bit deeper, of our old horse guide sitting with a beer in his hand at the new restaurant.

We sat down to eat and discovered that with the new restaurant came a new manager.  The manager was polite and made jokes.  He spoke excellent English, had lots of ideas for improving and expanding the lodge and had studied tourism.  He also tried to book a tour before offering drinks, but we took care of that in no time.

The next morning we were up early, excited that we had booked a horseback trip with the same guide, Alfrin, and that we would visit some new spots as well as some of the ones we remembered.  Rincon de la Vieja Park is truly a natural marvel, filled with amazing wildlife (we spotted a coatimundi and a boa constrictor), fantastic horse trails and thrilling views.  And of course, there are the mud pots and hot springs.  Rincon is very volcanically active, and a great deal of the gas escaping from the vents and pools is sulfur.  We joked that our first tour had been a trip from one stinky hole to another.

Rincon’s bubbling mud pots

This time, however, Alfrin led us to a new waterfall that the lodge owner’s son had discovered, complete with swimming hole and the cerulean flashes of morphos catching the sun.  We then rode to a hot spring, dyed white and light blue from the minerals and, yes, reeking of eggs.  But it was a wonderful, relaxing soak.

At the end of the day we galloped back to the lodge and dismounted, tired but happy.  The new restaurant welcomed us with twinkling lights and we couldn’t resist having a beer before heading back to our cabin.  As we clinked bottles and watched the setting sun, we realized that the pace of change in Costa Rica is fast and unstoppable.  But that, yes, you can return to places of magic.

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Everyone has their own reasons for falling in love with Costa Rica. The uncomplicated lifestyle, natural beauty and low cost of living always top the list. For me, these five factors of Costa Rica living have improved the overall quality of my life. Don’t you want to discover if Costa Rica is right for you?

1. Costa Rica is one of the greenest, cleanest countries in the world. Its progressive environmental policies and eco-friendly practices are evident everywhere you look. Did you know that Costa Rica is one of the few countries worldwide to actually reverse deforestation? I love waking up to the pure country air lightly scented with orange blossoms in our Central Valley home.

Top 5 Reasons I Love Costa Rica Living

This is the pura vida

2. ?Costa Ricans are some of the happiest people on Earth! According to the Happy Planet Index (HPI), an independent think-tank, “Costa Ricans report the highest life satisfaction in the world and have the second-highest average life expectancy of the Americas.” Now, if that doesn’t speak for itself, I don’t know what does. Friendly, gregarious, welcoming, patient and happy: the people of Costa Rica are its greatest national treasure.

3.  It’s easy to live and eat healthfully. Whether you’re an organic foodie, vegan or all-out carnivore, you’re bound to treat your body better in this tropical nation. Believe it or not, it’s actually more economical to eat healthy foods than junk in Costa Rica. Twenty US dollars will buy you a week’s worth of gorgeous fruits and veggies, fresh tuna and mahi mahi cost less than $3 a pound, and many Costa Rican towns have yet to see a McDonald’s or Pizza Hut. Roadside “fast food” snacks include farm-fresh fruits, agua de pipa (coconut juice), and tart slices of green mango.

I’ll always be a beach girl at heart

4. The great outdoors! The moment you set foot in Costa Rica all you want to do is explore. Mountains, rivers, volcanoes, cloud forest, rainforest, and more than 800 miles of sublime beaches: it’s all accessible in this tiny country. One of the great things about living – and traveling – in Costa Rica is its compact size, enabling you to traverse varied terrains in short amounts of time. In less than four hours, I can go from chilly cloud forest to sultry beaches, and still have time to relax and enjoy my day.

5.  Easy acclimation with little culture shock. I lived in South East Asia for years and always struggled with the language and feeling like I truly “belonged.” Learning Spanish was a breeze compared to Thai, and for the linguistically challenged, you have a built-in community of English-speaking locals and expats. In many ways, Costa Rica is much like the States in terms of access to modern amenities, but it’s the peaceful lifestyle coupled with a true appreciation for family and friends that sets this country apart. For me, this is the “pura vida,” and it will keep me rooted here for many years to come.

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For years, knowing the locations of landmarks like La Merced Church and the Coca-Cola bus station has been integral to successfully navigating downtown San Jose. However, in July 2010, the Municipality of San Jose announced plans to integrate the country’s first planned address system, complete with street names unique to every district.

San Jose is the ideal candidate for such a project. The capital city’s downtown is laid out in a perfect grid, with avenues (avenidas) running east-west, and streets (calles) traveling north-south. Calle Central and Avenida Central are the center of San Jose’s grid system. To the west of Calle Central, all streets ascend in even numbers (Calle 2, Calle 4, etc.), and to the east, in odd numbers. Similarly, to the north of Avenida Central, avenues ascend in odd numbers, and travel south in even numbers.

The problem is that most streets, while clearly labeled on a map, currently display no signage. There are only a few well-known roads, and every address is given with directions like “From the National Park, 300 meters west, 200 meters north, and 25 meters east; it’s the two-story red building with a black gate.” For those unfamiliar with the city and its myriad landmarks (many of which disappeared years ago), this system causes confusion and frustration; it can also make mail delivery a challenge.

San Jose’s New Address System

Navigating downtown San Jose will soon be much simpler

Johnny Araya, Mayor of San Jose, stated that San Jose’s first street signs would be installed by December 2010, and all signs should be in place by December 2011. Several have already cropped up in Moravia, Tibas, and Vazquez de Coronado. The $1.2 million project, which will produce approximately 16,000 street signs, is funded by national banks Banco de Costa Rica and Banco Nacional. In addition to displaying the road or avenue name, street signs will show the district name (Pavas, La Uruca, Central, etc.) and the sponsor bank’s logo.

Though the plan is encouraging, simply installing street signage may not be enough to change the age-old Costa Rican address system. According to Alvaro Coghi, General Director of the Costa Rican Post Office, change begins with education. “Here, this will be handled by the Ministry of Public Education (MEP), and will be incorporated into the school curriculum.”

One omission from the current project is the numbering of buildings. As street signs begin to appear, the most accurate address for any building will be its distance from the intersection of two roads, for example, “25 meters south of the intersection of Calle 321 and Avenida 165.” This is definitely an improvement over the old system, and most San Jose residents and commuters embrace the changes. Tourism professionals are especially happy for the progress, as it will allow travelers to better navigate San Jose’s streets.

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If there were one piece of advice I’d give to anyone thinking of relocating to Costa Rica, it would be to rent first. Though Costa Rica is small, it has an incredible array of microclimates and distinct communities. Renting will give you the flexibility to live in different areas and see where you feel most at home.

Begin researching which areas fit your wish list; if you like the beach, decide whether you want to be near expat communities, or if you’d prefer living off the beaten path. If you’ve targeted the mountains, do you want to live in a rural neighborhood, or do you prefer to be downtown?

Once you’ve identified the basics, make contact with locals. Visit online forums and ask questions. Talk to others who have relocated to your favorite locales. Check out online classifieds to get an idea of rental costs. Be aware that English-language classifieds often have higher prices, although this sometimes reflects higher construction quality, extra finishes, and larger property sizes. As you narrow down your search, local realtors may help you identify rental homes and act as your liaison with owners.

Helpful tips for renting in Costa Rica:

By default, most Costa Rican rental contracts are for three years – but you can usually leave anytime. Rental laws favor the tenant, and a three-year contract is meant to protect the your interests. The only penalty for leaving the contract early may be forfeiting your security deposit, and this depends on your landlord.If the landlord agrees to a one-year contact, and you do not want to leave after the lease is up, you have the right to automatically renew your rental contract for another two years.

Most landlords require a security deposit up front equivalent to one month’s rent. The law dictates that landlords have up to one month to return the deposit; this allows them time to assess outstanding utility bills and any property damage.By Costa Rican law, the landlord cannot raise your rent for three years if the contract is in dollars. This is true even if you’ve signed a six-month or one-year lease. By contrast, a rental contract in colones, the local currency, can increase by 15% per year.

Pay with U.S. dollars.In order to terminate the contract, the landlord must give you three months’ notice or the lease will renew for three more years.

Unfurnished rentals typically do not include the most basic household appliances. An oven, a refrigerator and a clothes washer can be quite expensive, so you may want to begin with a furnished or partially furnished rental.

Furnished rentals usually come equipped with essential furniture, inexpensive appliances, and a few kitchen gadgets. Plates, sheets, and towels are generally not included. Additionally, the furnishings in less expensive rentals may be outdated or not up to your standards. However, furnished rentals are a good deal and a great way to test out an area without accumulating a truck’s worth of possessions to take to your next rental.If you’ve opted for a furnished rental but want to rent for three months or less, check out local vacation rentals.

These homes are generally built with North American standards and come completely furnished – just bring your toothbrush! Especially during the low season (May-November), you may be able to work out a great month-by-month or short-term rental deal.In Costa Rica, your mantra should be location, location, location and amenities, amenities, amenities.

Check out what’s available in the neighborhood and even inside the home: if there’s no high-speed Internet or home phone installed, they may not be available at all.In urban areas, homes are often located very close to neighbors and within a few feet of the street – keep your eyes and ears open to area’s everyday sights and sounds. If something irritates you within the first hour, you’ll be miserable after a week.The rainy season (May-November) can be rough on homes and their contents, so you should always check walls and ceilings for water damage. If there’s none visible, chances are you’ll stay dry during the green season.

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Costa Rica is known as the coffee capital of Latin America. In the five plus years that I’ve lived here, I’ve sampled dozens of varieties and can heartily confirm this well-deserved reputation for rich java. For a traditional taste of this local delicacy, try using a chorreador: Costa Rica’s simple method for making coffee. This old-fashioned system yields strong flavor without the hassle of paper filters.

The flavor of coffee made with a chorreador is quite unlike coffee brewed in a typical coffee maker. The small cotton bag, or “coffee sock” that is used as a filter is simply washed with water between uses. This lends to a more robust cup of coffee. Chorreadors can be purchased all over the country, and are popular souvenirs in gift shops. A simple version can be purchased at your local market for around $4, while more decorative chorreadors made of precious wood–like the one pictured–sell for $20 and up.

Brewing Coffee with a Chorreador

Another decorative chorrreador

Making coffee with a chorreador is simple:

1. Place the filter, or coffee sock, on the wooden stand and put your mug underneath.

2. Fill the chorreador filter with coffee grounds and boil the desired amount of water. Usually, one tablespoon of ground coffee is enough for each cup of coffee. Increase this ratio if you prefer an extra bold cup.

3. Slowly pour the boiling water through the chorreador filter and wait for the coffee to drip into your mug.

4. For really strong java, pour the coffee back through the chorreador a second time.

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For many expats, Escazu is a home away from home, offering American-style amenities and services. At only two square miles, it is one of Costa Rica’s hottest residential locales, home to approximately 50,000 people. Adding to its suburban appeal, it’s just five miles west of San Jose and has some of the country’s most modern amenities, including a 3-D IMAX movie theater, upscale shopping malls, and quick access to Pacific coast beaches. Escazu’s climate is tropical, averaging about 75-80º F year-round.

Escazu’s population is diverse, giving residents a choice between traditional neighborhoods and upscale, gated communities. Living near the main highway affords fast access to all the amenities, while choosing to live in established communities adds a real Costa Rican flavor to life. No matter where you live, you’ll enjoy a high standard of living with advanced technologies like high-speed Internet, 3G cell phone coverage, and cable television.

San Antonio Church

San Antonio Church

In comparison to other San Jose suburbs, the cost of living is high. Rents in Escazu’s most desirable neighborhoods start around $500 for an unfurnished one-bedroom apartment. Depending on size and amenities, family homes in established neighborhoods and gated communities range in price from about $1,500 to more than $3,000.

Of course, steep rents come with luxurious features like large yards, granite countertops, and hot water throughout the home. Choose from an old hacienda-style home in an established neighborhood or an ultramodern design in one of the area’s hip developments.

Escazu residents enjoy chic restaurants, great nightlife, sidewalk cafes, and many other urban amenities. Two commercial centers – Multiplaza Escazu and Avenida Escazu – have all your favorite stores like Benetton, Nike, and Tommy Hilfiger. They’re also your ticket to the latest Hollywood movies, fast food restaurants, and other commercial pursuits.

The streets of Escazu

The streets of Escazu

Bargain hunters shop at Pricemart, a warehouse store similar to Sam’s Club or Costco that has bulk goods, home wares, and electronics. For the finer things in life (or at least in your pantry), residents head to Automercado, which carries organic foods, fines wines, artisan cheeses, and imported items.

Public transportation is convenient, accessible, and inexpensive. Buses head west into Santa Ana and Ciudad Colon, while eastbound stops include Rohrmoser, Sabana, and downtown San Jose. Commuters take advantage of the urban train that connects nearby Rohrmoser to San Jose’s eastern suburbs.

A night out on the town usually begins with dinner at one of Escazu’s fine restaurants. Satisfy your palate with Costa Rican, Thai, Mexican, Indian, or French cuisine. If you’re feeling nostalgic, there are plenty of American-style restaurants to choose from. Later, hit one of the town’s popular nightclubs, listen to live music, or head to San Jose for an evening of live theater or opera. Daytime entertainment options include San Jose museums, plays, and seasonal events.

San Jose's National Theater is just a few miles from Escazu

San Jose’s National Theater is just a few miles from Escazu

Families with children appreciate the area’s education system. The metropolitan region is filled with top-quality public, magnet, and private schools. Many offer bilingual or English-only classes and are located within a few miles of Escazu. Expats tend to favor the Marion Baker School, the Blue Valley School and the Country Day School. Just a few minutes east, the Colegio Humboldt in Rohrmoser offers classes in English, Spanish and German, while San Jose’s Liceo Franco Costarricense curriculum is in Spanish and French.

Escazu has many pharmacies, medical clinics, and private practices to address yearly check-ups and everyday problems. When more serious care is needed, most residents go to CIMA Hospital, a private facility that has state-of-the-art technology and a highly trained bilingual staff.

Expat Spotlight: Mary Carolina, age 33

1) Why did you choose to live in Escazu? My fiancé and I chose Escazu because of its safety, central location, and atmosphere. We really love that downtown Escazu still has a pinch of old Costa Rica; you can always find very kind and friendly people. I think a lot of people move here for the city-feel or for job convenience. Many of the big companies (including the American Embassy) house their employees in Escazu.

2) What are the positive and negative aspects about living in Escazu? Everything is close by; you can get to San Jose in about 10 minutes, there’s very reliable bus service, and you can find anything you need. There’s good proximity to hospitals, theaters, malls, restaurants, and shopping. Since there are so many expats, more English is spoken in Escazu than in any other part of the country. Also, the new Caldera Highway gets you to the beach fast, which is such a bonus for city dwellers. Of course, you have to pay a toll to take the road, which means I’ve been driving all the back roads for local trips!

Any negative aspects are the flip side of the positive: there are lots of people, congested roads, and upscale areas can be targets of crime. It’s more expensive than the rest of San Jose. Also, I’ve had my water turned off for hours at a time, so it’s essential to have your own tank.

Escazu hosts an annual oxcart parade

Escazu hosts an annual oxcart parade

3) What’s the expat community like there? I think it’s probably the best in Costa Rica since there are so many foreigners. The schools, shops, and restaurants really reflect the multi-cultural presence. Escazu is home to many embassies and their employees, so there are residents from all over. The best way to meet people is by joining expat clubs like the Little Theatre Group (performances in English), Women’s Club, Newcomer’s Club, book clubs, and the gym.

4) What are Escazu’s best neighborhoods for expats? Gated communities are good, not only for safety but also because most have recreation centers or pools where you can meet a lot of people. Open neighborhoods are also great, and I think the best are San Rafael, San Antonio and Guachipelin. Escazu tends to be very spread out and it just depends on what you want and how much you can spend.

5) Any tips or advice about moving to Costa Rica? Be open minded and patient; remember that life in Costa Rica moves slower. Also, and I can’t stress this enough, learn Spanish! Forget everything you know about how stuff gets done and how things “should” work. Then you’ll fit in just fine.

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A cool breeze wafts through my house and it’s completely silent except for the chirp of a rufous-collared sparrow perched near the open window. I’m drinking fresh limeade, squeezed from the mandarin limes my neighbor left on the doorstep last night. It’s 70º F, and the blue sky is interspersed with puffy clouds – a typical morning in the Heredia mountains. As I do almost daily, I look around and consciously appreciate how happy I am in my own little piece of paradise.

Tens of thousands of Americans residing in Costa Rica share my sentiments. Due to the recent economic downturn, 10% of baby boomers have chosen to retire outside the U.S., taking their retirement plans and pension dollars abroad where life is less expensive. By the year 2020, more than 50% of Americans will be over 50, and many will choose Costa Rica for their approaching retirement. Good choice!

For retirees looking for the best of all worlds – affordable cost of living combined with quality of life, excellent healthcare, proximity to family back home and fantastic weather – Costa Rica is the answer. Here, you can stretch your dollar without making big sacrifices: $1,500 monthly will cover a three-bedroom home rental, a weekly house cleaner, public healthcare, reliable public transportation, and utilities including high-speed Internet and cable television.

Medical care in Costa Rica is widely known for its low cost and high quality. As a legal resident, you’ll have two options: the public heathcare system (known as the Caja), or the public system combined with private insurance. Public healthcare costs roughly 10-11.5% of your income, starting from about $25 per month. Private insurance runs an extra $50-$100/month per person, and allows access to a wide selection of excellent private clinics and hospitals throughout the country.

Baby Boomer Retirement

Enjoy the great outdoors

Costa Rica’s natural beauty is unparalleled and worthy of exploration, so retirement here is never dull. More than 25% of Costa Rica’s land is protected, guaranteeing that the country retains its wild, wonderful biodiversity. Within a few hours’ drive, you can explore misty cloud forests, dive into warm ocean waters, or hike into picturesque rainforest. Spend the morning sunbathing on the beach and the evening snuggled up in front of a fireplace – here, you can choose your adventures, climate and pace.

As a popular retirement location for Americans, Costa Rica has a large expat community, which often serves as a built-in welcome club. Your social life will be as active as you please: join the local theatre group, birding club, bridge association, political group, or wine and foodie club. Your neighborhood will welcome you into the fold as well, and you’ll soon be waving hola to your neighbors and greeting shop owners by name. In no time at all, Costa Rica will feel like home and it’ll be your turn to relish your own personal paradise.

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The first time I saw a rambutan (Nephelium lappaceum) at the farmers’ market, I did a double take and wondered aloud, “What is that?” The spiky, red fruit sat piled high on a stand like a mountain of furry orbs, and was like nothing I’d ever seen before. A friendly vendor smiled at me and told me it was called mamon chino, or “Chinese sucker.”

He offered one to taste, and I peeled it apart, revealing a transparent fruit very similar in color and consistency to a peeled grape. I popped it out of the shell and into my mouth. The slick fruit was mild, sweet and just slightly tart, similar to white wine grapes at the peak of ripeness. I was hooked.

Rambutan trees bear fruit twice yearly: once around July and August, and again between November and February. During this time, they are available in almost every supermarket, farmers’ market, and roadside fruit stand in Costa Rica. Look for bright red “fur” and a firm, slightly spongy fruit. And it’s a bargain at $0.50 per pound.

The fruit is high in nutrients, including riboflavin, potassium, magnesium, vitamin C, vitamin A, and zinc. Their health benefits are varied, and many believe a diet rich in rambutan will help lower blood pressure and prevent cancer.

Rambutan (a relative of the lychee and longan) is most commonly consumed raw, straight from the firm skin. I love to sit down with a bag of fruit and a good movie, peeling apart the furry red shells over the course of a couple hours. Each fruit has about seven calories, so these little treats pack a delicious punch for their snacking value. If you’d like to have a go at using rambutan in the kitchen, try out this exotic rambutan ice cream:

Rambutan Ice Cream
16 rambutans, peeled and pitted
2 cups milk
3 egg yolks
½ cup sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
pinch of salt

In a food processor, blend rambutans with ¾ cups of the milk. When thoroughly blended, place the mixture in a mixing bowl. Set aside and cover with a metal mesh strainer.

In a medium saucepan, heat the remaining 1 ¼ cups milk and blend with sugar and salt. Just before the mixture boils, take it off the heat and quickly whisk in the egg yolks. Once the mixture is completely blended, place it back over the heat. This mixture must be whisked continuously.

The egg mixture will slowly take on a custard-like consistency. When it is thick enough to coat the whisk, pour the entire mixture through the mesh colander and into the rambutan blend. Add vanilla extract.

Place liquid into a chilled ice cream maker container and process until it turns into ice cream; put in the freezer until set. If you do not have an ice cream maker, place the mixture in the freezer and check every hour, stirring thoroughly, until it is mostly frozen. Freeze overnight.

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Personal reminiscences of Mexico's Huichol people VI: Peyote Fiesta

Huichol man in ceremonial dress

The Peyote Fiesta I attended at the invitation of my friend Nacho was held at Las Guayabas, deep in the valley below the plateau of San Andres in the Huichol Sierra. When we first arrived, I found myself a rather nervous outsider witness to a loud altercation between two groups of Huichols over a woman from another pueblo who had come to attend the Peyote Fiesta. It turned out that some of the Las Guayabas people thought she had no right to be there. Knowing that a Huichol was not welcome at this particular fiesta, I began to wonder about my own security. Outsiders are definitely not welcome at Huichol religious ceremonies, although the people of San Andres apparently now put on a show for tourists during Semana Santa (Holy Week, beginning on Palm Sunday and culminating with Easter). However, I was there as an invited guest. Moreover, it turned out that my friend Nacho was a much more important person on his home territory than I had previously imagined.

That evening, a dramatic scene took place that could have come out of a Hollywood movie. In front of a long rectangular adobe building that served as community center and seat of authority sat the shamans and elders of the pueblo. A fierce debate was going on. I scarcely recognized my friend Nacho, resplendent in his embroidered outfit and feathered sombrero as he stood up and began to disclaim in a loud voice. There was no electricity. The only light came from a large bonfire in front of the building, casting an eerie light on the intense faces of the shamans seated in their equipales, special ceremonial chairs. I managed to catch only a few Huichol words but I surmised it was about the incident earlier in the day. Whatever the issue, Nacho appeared to be in complete charge. I was thankful that Nacho and I had known each other for so many years in Ajijic and were such good friends.

The next morning, the ceremonies continued. I was sitting near the rough lean-to sun shelters where the men sat in one square area drinking great quantities of tejuino, which they would vomit up so they could drink some more. However, since there was no rowdiness, not even loud talking, I concluded that the drinking bout was part of the religious ceremony itself. Those women who were not serving tejuino, tequila, or tortillas and meat broth were sitting farther back from the center. Children played all around and were only occasionally scolded mildly for getting in the way of the ceremonies.

The peyote dance took place in front of the community center. A long line of dancers splendidly arrayed in their finest dancing attire circled in and out as they stamped their feet on the ground to raise as much dust as possible. I did not come to the Peyote Fiesta totally unversed in the ways of the Huichol, so I knew they were reminding Mother Earth to wake up and receive the coming rains. The lead dancer caught my attention. He was holding up deer antlers on his head as he wove in and out, leading the dancers through their paces. Of all the Huichols present, he was the only one wearing blue jeans. This was a particularly jarring note but Huichols can be very adaptable when necessary. Perhaps that is the secret of their survival.

A calihuey, or Huichol temple (sometimes spelled "kalihuey")

© Christopher Jordan English, 2003

At one point during the proceedings, Nacho came up and motioned to me and a few others to follow him to another ceremony at the grand calihuey of Las Guayabas. The calihuey or “god house” is the typical Huichol temple. Over a hundred years ago the Norwegian explorer and ethnographer Carl Lumholtz described the ceremonial replacing of the roof of the calihuey at Ratontita, an event which takes place at every calihuey throughout the Huichol territory once every five years. The one at Las Guayabas was very large, circular at the base, with stone walls higher than a standing person. Above that rose a very high conical-shaped thatched roof supported by long poles, each neatly bound together to form a kind of lattice work. Outside lay a large earthen square or plaza with a low adobe building off to one side. As we rounded the corner of the one building and into the square, I saw several Huichols lying flat out on the narrow stairway in front of the house apparently sleeping off the effects of the previous night’s tehuino drinking bout.

Inside the building, Nacho made me stand on an engraved stone at the edge of the fire pit while he prayed to Tatewari, the Old Fire God, seeking his blessing and — I believe — asking permission for me, a very conspicuous foreigner, to be there in the first place. At any rate nobody seemed to object to my presence, presumably because I was there at the invitation of a very influential shaman who was there to officiate at the ceremony.

Inside, I sat on a rock near the entrance, Nacho on the other side of me. Across from me on the other side of the entrance sat a Huichol magnificently attired in a brilliantly embroidered outfit, his feathered sombrero resting on his left knee. His head was propped up by his right hand and he appeared to be fast asleep. Another Huichol lay on the floor stretched out full length beside us while another one sat with his face to the wall. I was even more puzzled when I spied a rather stout Huichol lying back on a kind of long rectangular platform in the middle of the calihuey just behind the pillars supporting the thatched roof. Several children played nearby and people passed casually in and out of the calihuey. The atmosphere seemed all together too relaxed for a solemn religious ceremony. But I was not thinking like a Huichol.

Bundles of leafy green foliage hung from the high ceiling. When I asked Nacho about it, he mumbled something about it having been there from time immemorial, set in place by the gods themselves. He told me that this was the place where the Huichols originated. I had read somewhere that the traditional birthplace of the Huichols was located in Wirikuta in the general area of San Luis Potosi. However, the Huichols live in a different time and space from most of us and of course I did not question Nacho about it.

At the back of the building was a large scaffold, which Nacho said was meant to hold offerings. A few unidentifiable objects sat on top of it, while around the walls were niches apparently designed to hold offerings.

We sat quietly for awhile. Nothing happened. If you learn nothing else from the Huichols, you learn patience. Finally one of the Huichols nudged the drowsy man by the door.

Huichol ceremonial throne, a kind of equipal

Immediately he came to life, put on his feathered sombrero, and took up a position just behind one of the pillars. Others gathered forming a line just behind the fire pit. Up to this point, the stout man reclining in the center had been playing with a child on his expansive stomach. Suddenly he came to life, sat up, and picked up his muwieris (sacred arrows) and began to chant.

I heard a loud scuffling outside the door and several young Huichols came in dragging a young bull by the feet and horns. Several Huichols who appeared to be shamans assembled behind the bull. Meanwhile the stout Huichol remained seated, holding out his sacred prayer arrows, and chanting all the while. Nacho got up, took out his prayer arrows and waved them over the faces of the men. He touched his own face and the bottoms of each of his huaraches (sandals). Then he rubbed the feathers over the bull’s face.

One man, his face half-covered with a kerchief, took out a long knife and leaned over the bull’s head. Slowly, deliberately, he inserted the knife into the bull’s throat. At first I looked the other way as the bull bellowed, long drawn-out bellows that seemed to go on forever. A bull takes a long time to die. The knife was stuck into the bull’s throat several times to allow more blood to spurt out. The animal continued to convulse for a long time after the pathetic bellowing had ceased. By this time the bull’s blood had covered a good part of the stones in one part of the fire pit.

Then the thin tall older woman with the yellow peyote markings on her cheeks who had officiated at the earlier ceremony appeared. She leaned over the bull and began collecting the blood in jícaras (beaded ceremonial bowls). Then one of the shamans dipped a candle into the bowl of blood and began to walk around by the walls of the calihuey sprinkling blood in the niches and on other places on the wall. The man who had been lying on the floor when we came in directed him where to smear the blood on the wall. The cheeks of each of the shamans were also smeared with blood. The boys who had dragged in the bull were laughing, apparently amused at my presence there. But no one objected, at least not in front of me.

The ceremony ended quietly. The shaman who had been chanting simply stopped and laid down his feathered arrows. Throughout the entire proceeding he never got up or moved from his sitting or reclining position. Silently, the other participants left the calihuey. Nacho and I left a little while later.

I was impressed at how relaxed and natural the whole thing had been. Except for the plight of the bull (and here I am thinking like an outsider), I felt as if I belonged there with my Huichol friends. It had seemed more like a family affair rather than a village or communal religious sacrificial ceremony — almost like a Christian family gathering for a Bible reading and prayer. Perhaps there is really not that much difference. Perhaps we can learn more from the Huichols than we can teach them.

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Before moving to Costa Rica, the closest I’d been to a natural remedy was applying pressure between my thumb and index finger to relieve headache pain before the “real” meds kicked in. I was about to be educated.

Within weeks of my arrival, I had my first introduction to natural cures. After finishing a delicious meal topped with a generous serving of smoky, hot chipotle peppers, I was standing over the sink, arm-deep in soapy dishwater, when I felt the unwelcome stirrings of heartburn/acid reflex. It was already dark, and with no antacids in my medicine cabinet, I trekked over to my neighbor’s house in search of relief. Over the last few weeks, we had become close – I would soon refer to her as my Costa Rican “mom” – and she was always willing to help. When I explained my problem and asked if she had any antacids, she shook her head no, but then added that there was something she could give me.

A common houseplant, wandering Jew also treats Type II Diabetes

A common houseplant, wandering Jew also treats Type II Diabetes

We went out to the front yard, where a huge aloe plant sprawled at least four feet in diameter. She snapped off a green stalk and headed back to the kitchen. A minute later, I was guzzling a blend of freshly harvested aloe gel, milk and a few drops of honey; before I knew it, the burning in my esophagus had completely disappeared.

Over the years, I’ve learned more about traditional and herbal remedies. I still use pharmaceuticals, but for common or recurring maladies, I’m happy to give natural remedies a try. There are least 270 medicinal plants in Costa Rica, and many treat more than one ailment. It’s not uncommon to find medicinal plants and herbs at the plant nurseries or growing in backyards and along the roadside.

Medicinal plants and herbal remedies are used not only to treat diseases, but also to increase quality of life. Regular ingestion of herbal infusions, mainly as tea, helps strengthen the body against future illnesses. Additionally, scientists research medicinal plants very closely, and many pharmaceutical cures are based on ancient traditions. In fact, over half of the world’s cancer treatments are derived from plant sources.

It is important to note that most medicinal plants are actually mildly poisonous – their medicinal properties are the result of the toxins on the human body. For this reason, medicinal plant prescriptions must be followed closely. Local health food stores (macrobioticas) are a good source of information, but my top recommendation is a visit to Heredia’s Ark Herb Farm, the country’s largest producer of medicinal plants. The farm’s caretaker is an expert in natural remedies.

noni fruit

Healing noni fruit

Noni (Morinda citrifolia), also called the great morinda or Indian mulberry, is one of the rainforest’s most valuable fruits. Noni grows abundantly in Costa Rica, and its plants can reach up to 20 feet in height; it is also readily available in liquid form at almost every supermarket. This miracle plant, often referred to as “nature’s cure,” has been found beneficial in cases of cancer, digestive problems, gout, high cholesterol, hypertension, infections, lung disease, pain relief, and Type II diabetes.

Common Natural Remedies:

Anti-Inflammatory: Ginger, tumeric
Anemia: Brazilian cherry seeds, chaney (chainy) root
Antiseptic: Rosemary
Burns: Aloe vera and papaya
Cough & Sore Throat: Oregano, honey, mango, lemongrass, spilanthes extract (Spilanthes oleracea)
Dehydration: Coconut water from young coconuts (known locally as pipa, pronounced “pee-pa”)
Diuretic: Allspice, cinnamon, dandelion, boldo and papaya
Fungal Infections: Brazilian cherry sap, cotton plant oil
Heartburn (acid reflux): Aloe vera
High Cholesterol: Noni
Hypertension (high blood pressure): Noni
Laxative: Senna
Immune System: spilanthes extract (Spilanthes oleracea)
Indigestion/Bloating: Papaya and ginger
Insomnia: Carpenter’s bush (Justicia pectoralis), chamomile
Itch Relief: Impatiens flower buds, sorosi vine
Liver: Greater/common plantain (known locally as llanten, pronounced “yahn-tain”)
Nausea: Ginger
Stomach Upset & Diarrhea: Bitterwood, cinnamon, boldo, peppermint, chamomile, lemon balm, bushy matgrass (known locally as juanilama, noni, pronounced “whahn-ee-lama”), and bitter orange
Type II Diabetes: Brazilian cherry tree bark, noni, wandering Jew/inch plant

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