Posts tagged Mexico City
Our Lady of Guadalupe: Tonantzin or the Virgin Mary?
Feb 2nd

Tilma depicting
Our Lady of Guadalupe
Pope John Paul II named the Virgin of Guadalupe Patron Saint of the Americas on January 22, 1999 and that year her Basilica was was the most visited Catholic shrine in the world. Today the feast of Our Lady of Guadalupe, also known as the Queen of Mexico, is celebrated on December 12th, the date of her second appearance. However, it was on December 9, 1531, when Juan Diego, a humble Indian peasant, was crossing the hill of Tepeyac just north of present day Mexico City that — it is said— a beautiful shining woman miraculously appeared to him.
Declaring herself to be the Virgin Mary, Mother of Christ, she called Juan her son. He reported his vision to Bishop Juan de Zumarraga, who demanded additional evidence of the divine apparition.
On December 12 then, Juan Diego returned to Tepeyac, where the Virgin told him to gather roses where none had grown previously. Then, when the Indian delivered the roses to the Bishop, the image of the Virgin Mary miraculously appeared on his cloak. This has been taken as proof positive of the apparition.
Ever since the 16th century the tilma or cloak of Juan Diego displaying the image of the Virgin has been the focus of veneration by generations of devout Mexican Catholics as an actual physical artifact of a divine occurrence. Numerous claims are made in favor of its authenticity.
For example, examination by ophthalmologists allegedly reveals the image of a man staring out of the eyes of the face on the cloak. This is taken to mean that the Virgin Mary was actually present in the room when Juan Diego presented the roses to the Bishop. On this interpretation we are to imagine that we are seeing the face of Juan Diego as the Virgin Mary saw him more than four and a half centuries ago.
According to some accounts, her image on the cloak has remained unchanged over the centuries, although it is also said to have been retouched in 1929 to repair damage sustained through time and circumstance.
Whatever the “scientific” explanation, this image of the Virgin Mary not only reflects the sudden and violent clash of two cultures, Spanish and Aztec, but remains for many a symbol of the birth of the Mestizo nation of modern Mexico.
Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe
© Rick Meyer, 2001
The fame of the Virgin of Guadalupe rose rapidly after the Conquest and has continued to the present day. A small church was constructed on the spot where the apparition first appeared. In 1709, a larger church was erected on the site of the original sanctuary.
In 1745, the Vatican recognized Juan Diego’s vision as a miracle and two new Basilicas were built, one in 1904, the present one in 1976. Today the shrine of Guadalupe in Mexico City has became one of the most famous sites in Christendom visited by millions of pilgrims annually.
However, there is another side to the story. Before the fall of the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan in 1521, the hill where Juan Diego had his vision had also been the site of an ancient temple to the Aztec goddess Tonantzin (Our Revered Mother), later leveled to the ground by the Spaniards.
According to the great Franciscan ethnographer Sahagun “Our Mother” Tonan was also known as Ilamatecuhtli (a noble old woman) and Cozcamiauh (a necklace of maize flowers).
Aztec deities could not only be of double gender but different names represented different facets of the character of the same deity. Tonantzin, therefore, may be associated with the dread goddess Cihuacoatl (a serpent woman), whom Sahagun identified not with the Virgin Mary, but with Our Mother Eve and her encounter with the serpent of good and evil in the Garden of Eden.
Like most other Spanish missionaries, Sahagun was absolutely convinced that all Mesoamerican gods and goddesses were manifestations of the Devil. In the clash between Christian saints and Mesoamerican deities, it is not surprising therefore that the original Virgin Mary was eventually transformed into a beautiful dark-skinned Virgin encountered by Juan Diego.
The fortunes of Juan Diego have likewise waxed and waned over the centuries.
Depending on the source, Juan Diego was either a humble peasant lad wandering over the hill of Tepeyac or one of the most influential and powerful men in the Aztec Empire at the time of the Conquest.
When the Vatican decided to canonize him, their investigation reportedly revealed that the humble Indian lad had actually been a prince, the son of a king of Texcoco, who helped Cortes defeat the Aztecs. His royal blood and social standing are sometimes said to account for the large numbers of Indians who were baptized after the apparition of the Virgin in 1531.
In this particular account Juan Diego is a royal prince and a warrior, called the Tlacateccatl (he who commands the warriors), an honorific title given to the general in command of a troop of 8,000 men. One may indeed speculate that Juan Diego could have been transformed from a noble to a peasant under the influence of the Spanish missionaries to make his supernatural encounter on Tepeyac more congenial to the natives and thus encourage their conversion to Christianity.
Juan Diego was canonized by John Paul II on July 31, 2002; his feast day is December 9.
There are several different definitions of truth, all equally valid depending on your point of view.
For example, it is true that the Basilica of Guadalupe at Tepeyac was constructed on the site of the former temple of Tonantzin. That is an established historical fact or relative truth.
Street shrine in San Miguel de Allende from the Olden Mexico collection
© Darian Day and Michael Fitzpatrick, 2009
The concept of the goddess Tonantzin or the Virgin of Guadalupe, on the other hand, represents another kind of truth, a religious or spiritual truth. The latter we may describe as Absolute Truth because it remains absolute and unchanging regardless of individual opinion.
The first deals with concrete or factual evidence, such as textual analysis or archaeological artifacts, the second with theology, metaphysics, and matters of belief or faith. These two approaches to truth are not necessarily confrontational but may in fact be complimentary.
Accordingly, the ancient Aztec belief in Tonantzin and the Christian faith in the Virgin Mary are not necessarily contradictory.
Christianity in Mexico has been described as Mesoamerican Catholicism, an inextricable blending of Pre-Hispanic religion with the symbols and tenets of Christianity. In the case of the Virgin of Guadalupe, the Indians in Mexico simply transferred their beliefs and practices from Tonantzin, the Goddess of the Earth, to Mary, the Mother of God. In the process, the Indians also transformed the beliefs and practices of the Catholic Church to conform with and support their own Pre-Hispanic religion and world outlook. At least this is one point of view.
The original story of the Virgin of Guadalupe is told in detail in the Nican Mopohua (“Here it is told”), a section of a larger work known as “The Great Event,” a Nahuatl document published in 1649 by Luis de la Vega. It is in the form of a dialogue between Juan Diego and the “Noble Queen of Heaven, Forever Virgin, Mother of God” in which the Virgin instructs Diego how to convince Bishop Zumarraga of the truth of her apparition. She then instructs him to build a church for her on the Hill of Tepeyac. The document ends with acknowledgment of the divine character of the image on the cloak of Juan Diego. For Catholics, this confirms the validity of the church in Mexico and the role of the Virgin of Guadalupe (or Tonantzin) as a symbol of the Republic of Mexico.
In section # 26 of the Nican Mopohua, the Virgin states that she is “Mother of the One Great God of Truth (In Huelnelli Teotl Dios), the One Through Whom We All Live (Ipalnemohuani), the Creator of People (In Teoyocoyani), the Lord of the Near and the Far (In Tloque in Nahuaque), etc.”
These are a few of the key terms in understanding and interpreting Nahuatl literature. They are found in a number of poems ascribed to poets who lived before the Conquest of Mexico.
The problem is to explain how these poems — which were composed without the use of writing as we know it — got into the written form we have today.
The presence of Christian terms, such as “Dios,” “Santa Maria,” and “Obispo” scattered throughout these poems have led some scholars to postulate that they were not only composed and written after the Conquest but show more Christian influence than pre-Hispanic tradition.
While any discussion of the question of authenticity is outside the scope of this article, the use of these terms by Catholic writers is not. For example, one writer argues that in section # 26 of the Nican Mopohua, the Virgin is saying that she is the Mother of all the ancient Aztec deities! It follows from this, according to this writer, that the Virgin has incorporated the whole of Nahuatl (Aztec) philosophy and theology into Christianity, and thereby laid the foundation for the evangelization of the Indians. On this interpretation Aztec philosophy is nothing more than a Christian invention. But as M. Portilla showed in his work on Nahuatl philosophy, these terms predate the arrival of the Spanish missionaries and so cannot be used to prove Christian influence.
Nahuatl philosophy is a subject for future articles but, however you look at it the symbolism of the Virgin of Guadalupe, she represents the universal search for answers to the human dilemma, the mystery of death and the meaning of life.
Ask an old gringo about oil, Mexico doctors, Bimbo
Jan 22nd

PEMEX station in Zapopan
© Daniel Wheeler, 2010
Nobody asked about holidays in Mexico so I just won’t tell you but I will say happy 2011. And please wish us luck for the Pan Am Games coming to Guadalajara in October. Cross your fingers that arenas and housing will be ready in time.
* * * * *
Question: Has Mexico opened the oil industry to outsiders? Could this be true?
Answer: Yes and no. PEMEX will accept bids to extract leftover oil from mature fields. It will not sell ownership rights.
Oil companies around the world are so hungry, they will accept most any deal, including big-time investment on contracts with fuzzy fine print.
From Mexico’s perspective, this is the most significant change since oil was nationalized. The rush to participate reminds me that those who ignore history are prone to repeat the same old mistakes.
American oil companies, especially Standard Oil of New Jersey, lost a fortune in the 1938 experience. A settlement, five years after the fact, paid only a fraction of book value of expropriated facilities.
* * * * *
Question: From your perspective, how did the 2010 celebrations go?
Answer: I thought Mexico celebrated the bicentennial of independence from Spain and the centennial of the Mexican Revolution with enthusiasm and a sufficient degree of dignity. If there were major negatives, I missed them.
I watched on TV some of the biggest show in Mexico City. It was a wild and crazy party with much color and pageantry, laughter and applause — and more than a few tears.
Mexicans, when they stop and think about it, are a proud people. OK, some are bad. Most are good.
* * * * *
Question: Do you still drive in Mexico? Aren’t you afraid of the violence?
Answer: Yes, we drive, 1500 kilometers each way to and from the border and many more to favorite sites and to some we have not previously seen.
Yes, we are alarmed by the dangers of the drug war and grudgingly accept the risk. We are pleased to see increased military presence and more federal police blockades along our routes. We say “thank you” each time we are stopped.
Officers smile. They are not accustomed to kindness.
We are saddened to hear of occasional abuses by the military. Alas, we are reminded that drug cartels have no rules to abuse. The good guys are in a tough fight and I am not at all sure they can win.
* * * * *
Question: Have you ever been to the doctor in Mexico?
Answer: Yes, but, thankfully, that was some time ago. New friend David Frost has more recent information. He thought he had a kidney stone. The doctor in Catemaco sent him for an ultra scan and a urine test. Info gathered said just an infection.
Two stops at the doctor’s office set David back $16. The scan cost $22. The lab analysis was $1.60. Prescribed antibiotics cost $1.92. Prices are some higher where there are more Americans and Canadians.
* * * * *
Question: What the heck is this Bimbo business and how come she bought my favorite Sara Lee cakes?
Answer: Bimbo in Mexico is a giant bakery, not a dumb blonde. After generations of national success, the company is expanding into a world factor. Buying into the U.S. market seems a very intelligent decision. There are several Mexicans north of the border who will tell their neighbors about Bimbo products.
Incidentally, the bread people would like you to pronounce it BEEM-bo. They have already heard all the butter-my-bimbo jokes.
* * * * *
Question: Is Mexico doing anything to help protect the environment?
Answer: Of course. Just the other day, officials in Mexico City said the dump may be contaminating the water supply and maybe they should consider remedial action. The massive Bordo Poniente landfill takes in 12,000 tons of garbage daily. That is a lot of stuff.
Eventually, somebody asked when corrections might be made. Oh, it isn’t too bad, maybe manana, how about 2012? Meanwhile, don’t drink the water.
